Alchimia Apothecary’s Spring 2015 Collection

5 May

Spring is easily my favorite season for perfume. Creamy florals, crisp greens, fresh aquatics. Sure, fall is nice with its heavy gourmands and I love the chilly scents of winter, but I am all about spring. Which means of course I spend way too much on new releases! This year I was particularly swayed by Alchimia’s spring lineup: every single scent in it was one I wanted on my body immediately. My initial cart was scarily massive, but I managed to cut it down to 5 samples (there are 4 in the picture because I’m a spazz and Dapper King is missing at the moment). I already own Red Rover and I got a bonus sample of the one spring scent I passed up, so happily I ended up with the entire regular collection and one of the Blossom scents!

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Fleur de tilleul (linden blossom, rosewood, green tea, honey): I really wanted to get the full floral collection but narrowed it down to just this one. Because of the tea & honey, I’m not going to lie. This is a very soft, ladylike floral. Linden blossom is a definite white floral, but it’s light and almost dainty, definitely not heavy/cloying like some white florals can be. The honey and rosewood are hanging out in the background, accenting the linden blossom nicely without stealing the show. It’s no surprise that the floral aspect is the leading note here, but for some reason I was expecting more of a “sipping tea next to a vase of flowers” kind of feel.

Petrichor (grass, ozone, earth, alfalfa): This starts off with a sharp burst of ozone. It’s bright and lasts a surprisingly long time–ozone is a note that fades pretty quickly, but it hangs around a while in this blend. This is followed by concrete–you know that smell it gets when it’s wet? Like damp stone, only a bit more… artificial. As it dries down a bit the earth starts to peek out, but it’s not really a scent that screams “dirt” to me. Throughout there’s a hay/floral thing going on in the background, I’d guess from the alfalfa. But the ozone really dominates everything else, and it gets stuck in my nose with that almost sparkling effect like air before a storm.

BONUS ROUND Petrichor vs sixteen92′s Supercell (ozone, grass, asphalt, petrichor, hay, damp florals, stems, earth, branches): Supercell has a very long list of notes, but the hay and grass really dominate for me. It’s a little aquatic, very damp feeling, but it’s more like the air during rain while Petrichor is the air before rain. As such, they pair really beautifully. Nether is my ideal rain scent, but together… perfection! You get the before, during, after rain effect all at once with wet grass and super sharp ozone. It’s a gorgeous summer storm.

Lilaq (lilac, green wood, grass, earth): Given the name (and notes) I was expecting this to be straight-up floral. And in a way it is, but it’s not the overpowering WOW IT’S LILAC scent I was expecting. Have you ever been in the back lot behind a flower shop? There was one around the corner from me as a kid and the ground was always littered with carnation stems crushed into the ground and stray petals. That’s what this smells like–brisk, almost bitter stems and leaves, a hint of dirt, and soft flowers. It’s ever-so-slightly powdery, but in the way you expect from lilac blossoms. This was such a pleasant surprise, since I was expecting just flowers but got a whole experience.

Lion’s Tooth (dandelion, milky sap, stems, grass, dry wood): This is green green green! It’s not aquatic, not floral, just straight-up spring greenery all over your wrist. Grass is the most prominent note, that wonderfully sweet scent of a just-cut lawn. It’s followed by dandelion… not the flower exactly, but the bitter stem and leaves. This reminds me so much of childhood, summers spent rolling around on the lawn and getting covered in grass stains. I originally almost blind-bought a full bottle of this, and I really wish I had!

The Dapper King (fougere, juniper, rosemary, dandelion): I was expecting this to be a kind of herbal version of Lion’s Tooth, given the shared dandelion note, but they are really different. This came out super floral on my skin, bordering on powdery. It’s also quite masculine due to the juniper/ferns… yes, a powdery, masculine floral. Those are two genres I like on their own, but I’m not sure how I feel about the combination.

Red Rover (clover, honey, grass): I’ve reviewed this one before, and I still adore it. Bright, happy green! This is the slightly sweeter cousin of Lion’s Tooth: there’s no bitter greenery, just smooth soft and sweet clover. This and Maedwe are the essence of spring to me, just happy and bright. This is also great for layering, it goes well with simpler florals and gives them a lot of depth.

Sex on the Lawn (lilac, ferns, ivy, sandalwood, grass, dirt): The notes of this seem very similar to Lilaq, but they’re quite different both in the vial and on my skin. The dirt is much heavier here, and the lilac is waaay in the background. Like, just a hint at the very tail end. This is more green than floral, but a deep green (I’m always describing scents in color, is that even helpful to anyone??). The ferns and ivy really deepen it, and it seems like more of a “woodsy green” than a “grass green.” Like early spring woods, when everything is just starting to bud!

If you like grass, lemme tell you, this is the collection for you. Dirty grass! Sweet grass! Dandelion grass! Just all the grasses. Unsurprisingly, I loved all the grass scents and only had one miss (Dapper King) and one just-okay (Fleur de tilleul)–both of which had no grass. I guess I’m really just in the mood to roll around on the lawn?

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